The Precarious Future of Tibetan Culture in Zanskar Valley

Embedded in other-worldly landscapes high in the Himalayas lies Zanskar, a uniquely vibrant vestige of Tibetan heritage which has existed with little change for many centuries; protected and isolated by brutal cold winters, rugged towering peaks and massive glaciers. 

In September of 2023, I had the privilege to visit the remote Zanskar Valley with a group of humanitarian and cultural photographers who all possessed an earnest admiration and interest in a way of life that is being quickly impacted by external change.

Photographic Impressions of Zanskar

My first impressions of Zanskar were the beautiful and often barren landscape and a culture of quiet, reserved people devoted to their Buddhist spirituality.

As in other countries, the culture of Tibet is challenged by geopolitical forces. Here the challenges to preserving a culture that has successfully endured for many centuries in this harsh physical environment is being pressured by a different set of factors that may dramatically alter the course of the future.

I was privileged to bear witness to the warmth of these people and their ancient way of life while it remains vibrant. The Tibetan Buddhist principles of nurturing compassion and ethical conduct remain as a gift to all of humanity.

Where is Zanskar?

Zanskar is a secluded and mountainous subdistrict in the Kargil district of northern India in the union territory of Ladakh. It is situated in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir and boasts breathtaking landscapes, profound gorges, and age-old monasteries placed somewhat precariously on the top and sides of alpine mountains.

Accessible mostly by road, notably through the hazardous Zanskar Gorge, even today, Zanskar society remains cut off from the rest of the world for most of the year due to heavy snowfall and impassable roads.

This seclusion only adds to its mystery and allure, attracting the most intrepid travelers seeking the thrill of seeing its untamed wilderness. This seclusion has also served to protect Zanskari culture and their unique way of life.

Cultural Photography in “Little Tibet”

The enigmatic region of Zanskar is often dubbed "Little Tibet" due to its striking resemblance to the cultural and geographical features of its more renowned neighbor to the northeast.

The similarity to Tibetan Buddhism is evident in the numerous monasteries and stupas that dot the landscape, and as cultural photographers, these structures demanded our attention as a testament to the enduring spiritual legacy of the region.

Zanskar has been closely linked to Tibet through the spread of Tibetan Buddhism.

Variations of Tibetan Buddhism are practised in Tibet, Bhutan, Mongolia, and India. Smaller populations may be found in various locations in China, Central Asia and several republics in Russia. Zanskari scholars and practitioners have often sought education and spiritual guidance in Tibetan monasteries, fostering a continual exchange of religious knowledge and practices between the two regions.

Zanskari art, including thangka painting, closely resembles traditional Tibetan art, depicting similar motifs, religious figures, and themes.

The geographic isolation of Zanskar at the remote western reaches of the Tibetan plateau and its historical ties to Tibet have enabled the preservation of the ancient customs. Even now, despite the geopolitical boundaries that now separate Zanskar from the Tibetan Autonomous Region in China, the spiritual, cultural, and historical ties between the two regions remain profound.

Documenting Tibetan Cultural Traditions

The people of Zanskar warmly welcomed us, offering our party many intimate glimpses of their traditional way of life. We were able to intimately engage with the practitioners of Tibetan Buddhism and learn some of their ways and philosophies.

They patiently indulged our cameras and interest in recording their traditions.

Visiting Tibetan Monks

During our visit to one of the Gompas (monastery), we were guests during a “Puja” or ceremony of prayer. The monks engaged in devoted chanting in honor of the ailing sister of one in our party.

Further, we were able to sit with the 94-year-old teacher Nawang Wangchuk “Meme Wangchuk” who welcomed us into his small and humble quarters, graciously sharing tea along with his wisdom of love and compassion for all sentient beings.

He spoke with awareness that his life is nearly over, but with acceptance and wisdom that while we all die we must answer the urgent call while we still possess our precious life in a good and loving way and to always feed anger with love and kindness.

As a younger man, Meme Wangchuk ventured to Tibet on a pilgrimage to stay and learn the ancient teachings. Tragically, following the takeover of Tibet in 1959, Meme Wangchu narrowly escaped and had to make a long and hazardous journey across the Himalayas on foot all the way back to his Gompa while escaping civil unrest and brutal conditions with only the most basic belongings.

Luckily he survived the long and arduous journey where he shared his Tibetan learnings with his fellow Zanskaris.

Threats To The Cultural Heritage of Zanskar

Influenced significantly by massive road construction projects, the region’s legendary isolation is quickly breaking down.  As it does, the unique cultural heritage of Zanskar is also in threat of rapid change and assimilation into surrounding cultures.  

As impactful as this road construction and improved access is to these people’s cultural identity, climate change is an even more powerful force that presents a permanent existential threat to not only the culture but the very ability of the region to sustain human populations.

In addition to diluting the strong cultural identity and local practices, these projects bring massive environmental disruption to the regions unique and fragile ecosystems.  

Cultural Photography of Tibetan Culture

The population of Zanskar is small. According to the last India census in 2011, it had less than 14,000 people.  More recent estimates put the population at less than 20,000.    

While speaking with the local people, they seemed to appreciate and recognized that the roads provide tangible benefits notably better access to health care, technology and supplies.  We also heard their real concerns related to external influence.

Easier access to the outside brings items such as pesticides and fertilizers that negatively impact the land and their food supply now and into the future.  These changes are certainly not unique to Zanskar although here change has been extremely rapid.   

Glaciers are Critical for Life in Zanskar

Glacial runoff provides the only significant source of water for consumption and agriculture in this region and the continual flow of water from the glaciers is essential for the livelihood and survival of these people and their way of life. 

The glaciers do rebuild to some extent each winter, but decreasing precipitation is no longer allowing the glaciers to replenish at an even rate. 

It is a great injustice that the people living here who rely entirely on the glaciers for water and survival have contributed almost nothing to climate change yet stand to experience some of the highest costs as a result of it.

The gradual disappearance of glaciers in Zanskar heralds a transformative shift in the region's ecological balance. The altered water cycles have already begun to affect traditional agricultural practices, leaving the once fertile lands parched and challenging the sustenance of the Tibetan communities.

Tibet Culture Photos

The very essence of Tibetan culture in Zanskar is intimately tied to the natural landscape, reflecting its spiritual practices and distinct way of life centered around growing food in a challenging climate in a very short growing season. 

So as the glaciers retreat, the loss of water resources and the consequent challenges threaten the survival of centuries-old customs and traditions for farmers and monks alike.  

The potential migration of the local populace in search of more sustainable livelihoods further jeopardizes the continuity of cultural practices, language, and rituals that have defined the identity of the Zanskari Tibetans for generations. 

If they have no ready access to water, they have little choice but to abandon their homelands, with almost inevitable consequences to their very identity.

Photographing the Himalayan Glaciers

There are more than 100,000 glaciers across the planet which are the remnants of the last Ice Age.  

Various recent reports of climate change have outlined the extensive loss of glacial ice in the past 50 years which is alarming by the accelerating rate of melt. 

While some glaciers in the world continue to expand, the overall net loss of glacial ice is alarming to glaciologists and climate scientists, with the rapidly accelerating pace of loss documented in the past several decades. 

The Glaciers are Disappearing at an Alarming Rate

In “State of the Climate” in 2019, glacier expert Mauri Pelto reported that the place of glacier loss accelerated from -6.7 inches per year in the 1980s, to 11 inches per year in the 1990s, to 1.6 feet per year in the 2000s, to 2.9 feet per year for the 2010s.

Many are aware of the big impact that large masses of ice melting can have on ocean levels as runoff continues to accelerate. Additionally, glaciers provide a reliable water supply to hundreds of millions of people and their ecosystems around the world (including parts of the US). The situation is especially troubling in some parts of the world where alternate sources of water are extremely limited or simply do not exist.

About 400 million people around the globe rely on mountain glaciers for a portion of the water they drink and use in agriculture.

A report issued earlier this year from the Kathmandu-based International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development has estimated that the glaciers across the Hindu Kush Himalayan mountains melted 65 per cent faster from 2010 through 2019 than in the previous decade and could lose up to 80% of their volume before 2100 is greenhouse gases are not significantly reduced. 

Other research has found that Mount Everest's glaciers alone have lost 2,000 years of its ice in just the last 30 years.  While estimates vary, meltwater from the Himalayas meets the basic water needs of more than 200 million people each year.

It is tough not to ponder what will happen to these people and their beautiful, ancient culture and way of life should the glacial runoff slow to a trickle.  The people here could no longer grow their own food, care for their animals or even have sufficient drinking water. 

While roads are being built at a massive rate in this extremely remote region, it is difficult to imagine how this improved access to the outside could provide sufficient water to sustain life in this valley to any significant degree without radical changes in their way of life.

Initially, while global temperature continues to increase, the “peak water” flow will increase and water will appear abundant until about 2050. 

In some areas that may result in flooding and after that time, the glacial flow will begin to reverse and the glacial runoff will begin to dwindle. Some local solutions being explored have been solar-powered piping of water, creating artificial glaciers and “Ice Stuppas” in an attempt to hold water in “frozen reservoirs”.  It is unclear if these solutions will prove effective and/or sufficient.

Cultural Photography: Capturing the Threatened Zanskar Tradition

Community-led initiatives in Zanskar promoting sustainable agricultural practices, water conservation, the preservation of indigenous knowledge and the integration of modern technologies, still provide some hope for a sustainable future that honors the legacy of the Zanskari Tibetans.

Can Zanskar Survive Climate Change?

By portraying the dignity and diversity of its people, customs, and landscapes, this cultural photographic work aims to highlight the challenges confronting the Zanskari people, including environmental threats, economic pressures, and cultural erosion while capturing the cultural beauty and humanity.

Advocacy for the protection of the Himalayan ecosystem and support for local communities in their endeavors to adapt to the changing environment are crucial steps toward securing a viable future for the people of Zanskar.

View more cultural photography projects.